My work in the vineyard continues with training the green shoots through the trellis wires as they extend upward. Many of the tender green leaves are about the size of my hand when I extend my fingers. They are the perfect size for making dolmas or stuffed grape leaves.

Dolmas, or the Greek dolmades, are similar to cabbage rolls in that they are stuffed with rice, vegetables and occasionally meat. There are several recipes, depending on region, but most use uncooked or only partially cooked rice. That requires the rolls to be tightly packed in a pot with a grate or steamer-type device lifting them away from the pot bottom and a heavy plate on top of the packed rolls. The rolls cook at very low heat above seasoned water for over an hour. As the rice expands, the tight packing and heavy plate keep the rice from bursting out of the tender grape leaves.

Sounds like a lot of work to me. I have my own method for dolmas. I’m sure those who are purists will frown at my method, but it’s fairly quick, leaves less room for error and is ready in about 40 minutes. This recipe makes enough for an appetizer or even a nice side dish at any meal.

Stuffed Grape Leaves
18-20 large grape leaves
water
1 lemon
1-1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. Kosher salt
4 c. cooked rice
1/2 onion, small diced
1 rib celery, small diced
1/3 or 1/4 lb. ground meat (any type)
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. dried dill
1 tsp. dried parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add olive oil, salt, the juiced lemon and its rind to the water for flavoring. Wash grape leaves and add the boiling water. Blanch the leaves for 3 minutes and remove. Let the leaves cool and reserve the pot water.

Sauté onion, celery, meat and herbs until the meat is cooked and the vegetables are tender. Stir in cooked rice.

Place a rack or steamer insert into a medium sauce pan. Pour about an inch or two of the reserved flavored water into the pot. Build dolmas by laying a leaf bottom-side-up on a cutting board. Scoop about 1 Tbsp. of rice mixture onto the leaf. Fold the bottom of the leaf over the rice, fold the two sides in and roll upward making a small packet. It will look like an egg roll or a small burrito.

Place each packet on the steamer rack with the tip of the leaf on the bottom. Continue to build the packets until all the leaves are used and the rack is full. Cover the pot and bring to a low simmer on the stove. Cook for 30 minutes or until the leaves are tender.

I served the dolmas with a lemon and egg curd sauce. Yogurt seasoned with dill, mint, lemon, salt and pepper would make a nice sauce too.

Lemon and Egg Curd Sauce
1 Tbsp. butter
1-1/2 Tbsp. flour
1 c. chicken stock
1/2 lemon, juiced
1 pinch salt
2 egg yolks

Melt the butter in a small skillet. Add flour and cook to form a paste. Whisk in chicken stock and lemon juice. Continue to cook until the sauce thickens. In a separate small container, add a few spoonfuls of the warm sauce to the egg yolks and stir. That will temper the yolks and keep them from over cooking. Add the tempered egg yolks to the pan sauce and stir until smooth. Season with salt if necessary.